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Статьи - Пешеходный туризм   |  

Камчатка. Отчет о пешеходной 5-ке Мы давно мечтали о Камчатке, и она стоила потраченных денег. Группа получила массу ярких впечатлений от столь необычного и неповторимого района как Центральная Камчатка. Текущая вулканическая активность делает район непохожим на другие места (по крайней мере, очень сильно отличается от Южной Сибири, Уралов и Кольского). Пейзажи напоминают декорации к «Властелину колец», а действующие вулканы производят особое впечатление. При этом необходимо обратить внимание на следующие особенности Центральной Камчатки в районе Ключевской группы вулканов:

1. Отсутствие воды на подходах. На склонах вулканического плато вода отсутствует полностью на довольно значительных расстояниях – до нескольких десятков километров. Это же касается и рек – половодные в верховьях – в низовьях наоборот иссякают, также количество воды в них очень сильно колеблется от времени суток. Необходимо учитывать эти особенности при планировании переходов, запасаясь водой заранее.

2. Специфические вулканические формы рельефа. В районе очень много специфических форм рельефа, связанных с активной вулканической деятельностью. В первую очередь это касается полей застывшей магмы – движение по ним очень сильно затруднено, так как необходимо обходить воронки и трещины. Сюда же относятся и цирки, которые иногда встречаются вместо оврагов, в лесу они затрудняют ориентирование по рельефу. К особенностям рельефа следует причислить и наличие продуктов вулканической активности на поверхности ледников и специфической вулканической пыли и пепла в воздух. Каменные осыпи из-за этого очень подвижны, движение по ним – затруднено. Рельеф на склонах вулканов сильно изрезан неглубокими овражками, постоянное пересечение которых, очень сильно изматывает.

3. В районе Ключевской, как правило, в полдень и во второй половине дня затягивает небо шлейфом облаков от вулкана (возможно, когда вулкан неактивный – все по-другому). На высоте около 2-х км в это время стоит туман, видимость ограничена.

4. Район повышенной сейсмической активности. Следует помнить и не приближаться к крутым склонам с лежащими камнями, независимо от времени суток – тряхнет, и могут посыпаться в любой момент.

5. При ухудшении погоды – условия крайне суровы из-за близости Тихого океана и Охотского моря: сильный ветер, значительная влажность и холод. Это необходимо учитывать и запастись соответствующими вещами, чтобы не переохладиться.

Необходимо еще раз поднять вопрос о пересмотре эталонных маршрутов. Так на Центральной Камчатке они лишь вскользь проходят через Ключевскую группу, уводят по легкому пути на соседние хребты, где заросли и нечего смотреть, а заканчивают в уже несуществующих населенных пунктах. В них практически отсутствуют локальные препятствия кроме вершин вулканов, а километраж очень значителен – гораздо более 300 км. В нашем случае километраж близок к эталонному для 5 к.с., нам удалось посмотреть малохоженные интересные места вблизи вулканов и кроме вершин пройти категорийные перевалы и траверсы, а это разнообразно и интересно. Освоенные в советское время территории сейчас пришли в запустение – населенки там нет, и никого кроме медведей не встретишь. Сплошные протяженные препятствия в виде заросшей лиственным сланником старой вырубки. Наматывать лишний километраж на соседних хребтах сегодня смысла нету.

Мы очень жалеем, что у нас не получилось взойти на вулканы Овальная Зимина, Острый Толбачек и Большая Удина – это добавило б колориту и балов к нашему маршруту и доставило огромное эстетическое удовольствие. При этом удручает практически полное отсутствие описаний маршрутов восхождений на эти вершины, за небольшим исключением. Можно рекомендовать совершить восхождения на Ушковский или Крестовский вулканы с ледника Богдановича – позволит добрать балы за локальные препятствия. На наш взгляд, для маршрутов 5 кс в районе Ключевской группы вулканов включение участка ледника Богдановича – перевала Геологов – траверса вулкана Безымянный – обязательно, так как дает набор основных протяженных препятствий в виде осыпей, снега и льда, плюс – таежный участок.

Знакомство с Камчаткой будет неполным без южной части и Тихого океана. Поэтому рекомендуем последовать нашему примеру и дополнить походную часть экскурсионной программой. Если в группе есть свой водитель, то аренда только одного автомобиля значительно удешевит путешествие. Можно совершить выезд к Мутновской ГТС, а там восхождения на вулканы Мутновский и Горелый (у нас не получилось из-за погоды), на термальные источники, Тихий океан. Туда рейсовый транспорт не ходит. Автобусом можно добраться к Авачинскому вулкану, и взойти на него. У кого денег побольше – можно договориться еще и за морскую прогулку. Поговаривают, что восстановят рейсовое сообщение по морю вдоль побережья. А мегамажоры могут слетать на вертолете в Долину Гейзеров (100 тыс. руб. в час – аренда). И не забудьте оставить деньги на камчатские сувениры – красную рыбу и икру. Отказ от экскурсионной программы и возвращение рейсовым автобусом могло бы удешевить нашу поездку, но не значительно. Обратите внимание, что рейсами Трансаэро и Аэрофлота на П.-Камчатский можно перевозить 30 кг груза, о чем в билетных агентствах не всегда знают. Это дает возможность купить все заранее и не тратить лишние деньги (Дальний Восток, как никак) и время в Петропавловске-Камчатском.

Не забудьте также зарегистрироваться в МЧС (обещают искать даже с вертолетом, причем бесплатно, если что). Желательно, от греха подальше еще оплатить пребывание в Национальном парке «Вулканы Камчатки». Билеты – в дирекции, а она переехала в соседний с Петропавловском город – Елизово, в котором находится аэропорт. Учитывайте это при планировании своего пребывания. Регистрацию (уведомление ФМС) также желательно делать, так как рейсов на материк мало, а иностранцев караулит мент (теперь коп) – могут быть проблемы. Не понятно, что с погранзоной. В Интернете написано, что территория с особым режимом пребывания для иностранцев начинается с северных склонов Ключевской Сопки и в неё входит город Ключи, остальная территория – обычная. Правда, на сайте Национального парка «Ключевской» написано, что для его посещения иностранцами необходимо разрешение ФСБ. Этот вопрос лучше уточнить. Нам повезло – мы с этим не сталкивались.
Люди на Камчатке очень хорошие, открытые и гостеприимные, а природа – волшебная! Мы побывали в настоящей сказке, поэтому желаем вам последовать нашему примеру, и превзойти нас по количеству приятных впечатлений и полученного удовольствия.

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0 #43 Serena 01.08.2019 07:32
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0 #45 Arron 02.08.2019 18:51
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0 #46 Filomena 02.08.2019 20:01
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0 #47 Floyd 03.08.2019 16:00
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0 #49 Dolores 16.08.2019 09:29
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0 #50 Muhammad 16.08.2019 18:10
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